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Pleated pants made from Patternalism sewing pattern #0204 – front view, female model

PLEATED PANTS, PATTERN #0204

€28

A women's pleated pants sewing pattern PDF inEU sizes 36–46 — O-shape silhouette, deep inverted front pleats, hook-and-eye waist closure with a zipper, bias-bound internal waistband. The O-shape and the pleat work together: the waist closes cleanly, the volume opens through the hip, and the leg hangs with a long, vertical line. Traditional construction throughout — precise, considered, and worth the process.

Sizing Guide →

Size EU
Height, cm

Printing Instructions →

We created these pants for those who want a strong silhouette that feels effortless to wear. The O-shape is not about volume for its own sake — it is the geometry that makes the pleat work and the leg hang clean.

Why this pattern will become your favorite:

  • An Architectural Silhouette: Deep inverted front pleats are more than a design detail — they create the volume through the hip that makes the vertical line of the leg appear longer. The O-shape and the pleat are designed together; each depends on the other.
  • A Waistband with Character: The internal edge of the waistband is finished with bias binding. This is not just an aesthetic choice — it is the detail that makes the inside of the garment as considered as the outside.
  • Simplified Without Shortcuts: We have removed complexity from the internal assembly while keeping the clean, tailored lines of a traditional trouser. The result looks precise because it is.

For this model, it is critically important to choose structured fabrics so that the voluminous waist pleat maintains its geometry and does not collapse during wear.

  • Heavyweight Cotton (Cotton Twill): Ideal for clean lines and everyday wear.
  • Heavyweight Linen: The best choice for summer. Look for a stiffer, "dry" linen so the pleats look sharp and architectural.
  • Denim: A classic choice for casual looks, perfectly highlighting the volume of the design details.
  • Canvas: A durable material that gives the trousers a modern utility look.

Avoid: thin, flowy, or very soft fabrics (such as rayon or silk). They will not be able to support the volume of the pleats, and the trousers will lose their intended silhouette

36 38 40 42 44 46
Main fabric, 140 cm (55") wide m 2,59 2,6 2,65 2,67 2,73 2,75
yd 2,83 2,84 2,9 2,93 2,99 3,01
  • A4 pattern file — tiled, print at home or at any print shop
  • Large-format pattern files — 600 mm and 900 mm wide, for plotter printing
  • Step-by-step sewing instructions
  • Trousers Hook & Eye (1 set): Sew-on metal hook and eye for the waistband closure. Provides a secure, flat, and clean look.
  • Zipper (1 unit): Nylon coil trouser zipper (Type 3 or 4), 18 cm long, matching the main fabric color.
  • Bias Binding (1.5 m): Ready-made or cut from lining fabric to finish the lower (internal) edge of the waistband. This provides a clean, premium interior finish.
  • All-purpose Sewing Thread: High-quality reinforced polyester thread (Size 40/2) in a matching color for construction and topstitching.
  • Overlock Thread: Matching thread for finishing internal edges (3–4 cones).
  • Interfacing (Fusible): Medium-weight woven interfacing for the waistband, fly, and under-fly (facing).
  • Pocketing Fabric: Durable, lightweight cotton or poly-cotton blend (such as sateen or poplin), approximately 0.3–0.4 m.
  • Stay Tape (15 mm): Adhesive iron-on tape to stabilize the pocket openings and the crotch seam to prevent stretching.

36 38 40 42 44 46
Side seam length cm 111 111,5 114 114,5 116 116,5
in 43,7 43,9 44,9 45,1 45,7 45,9
Waist cm 71 75 79 83,5 87,5 94
in 28 29,5 31,1 32,9 34,4 37
Thigh cm 88,5 90,5 93 95 97,5 99,5
in 34,8 35,6 36,6 37,4 38,4 39,2
Bottom width cm 30,5 31 31,5 32,5 33,5 34
in 12 12,2 12,4 12,8 13,2 13,4
  • Sewing machine: Any home machine with a straight stitch.
  • Overlock machine: For finishing raw edges inside. If you don't have one, you can use the zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine.
  • Iron: Very important for pressing seams and keeping the fabric flat and neat.
  • Zipper foot (One-sided foot): Helps you sew very close to the zipper and pocket edges.
  • Tailor’s chalk or thin soap: To mark lines on the fabric.
  • Ruler: To measure and mark straight lines for pockets and darts.
  • Fabric scissors: Large, sharp scissors for cutting the fabric.
  • Thread snips (Small scissors): For cutting loose threads and making small, precise cuts in corners.
  • Hand sewing needles & Pins: For temporary stitching and holding fabric pieces together before sewing.